Tag Archives: Australia

Harris Family Down Under Epilog — Lessons Learned

We didn’t do too badly for non-world-travelers, but there were definitely things we wish we’d known. In no particular order:

  1. Currency– Did you know you can obtain foreign currency from your bank? I didn’t know this until it was too late; it must be ordered several days in advance. Don’t buy currency from those currency exchanges at the airport–there’s a reason they’re not crowded, and it has to do with crummy exchange rates. What’s worse, our conceptual understanding of the cost of everything was based on our unfortunate currency exchange, so we thought things were much more expensive than they turned out to be when we got our credit card statement.
  2. Cell phones– We contacted our cell carrier, Verizon, and arranged for international coverage. What we didn’t realize is that Verizon doesn’t have any cell towers in Australia, nor, apparently, do they have any agreements with major cell carriers there like Telstra. Danny and Zoe did the smart thing, but then again they are seasoned travelers. Upon arrival, they quickly visited the local Vodaphone store and got “burner” sim cards for their phones for the incredibly low price of $25 (AU) each (so like, USD $15) FOR THE WHOLE MONTH. This gave them local phone numbers and 5G coverage all over the country. Zoe was even smarter– she carries 2 phones when traveling. One for “international use” that she can put the burner sim card in, and one for taking pictures (her Chinese phone, it takes great photos.) I’m not sure Danny’s way (new sim card) would have worked for us, as we needed to be able to be reached by our travel agent and our house- and pet-sitter. So my recommendation to others is to take 2 phones if you can, one for a burner sim card and one with your international coverage from your home carrier.
  3. Passports– Although we didn’t need it, I put a scanned copy of my passport front page in my suitcase, along with a copy of our names, address, and flight itinerary with the trip code in case of lost or misplaced luggage. US passports have chips in them, which is great because it makes obtaining an Australian visa super-simple. Also, it greatly simplifies getting through customs and immigration in Australia. I still haven’t figured out all this “declarations” stuff, though. Do prescription medications have to be declared? And on the way home, no one ever asked us about declarations. So …. what happened there? Did we just get mercy from being in the wrong line and having a pressing connection (I mean, that does NOT sound like customs and immigration)?
  4. Voltage– Australia, like much of the world, uses 220 V as its basic house wiring voltage. In the US we use 115 V. Your cell phone, laptop, or tablet charger doesn’t care (check the wall wart), it just needs an adapter (buy several from Amazon). But if you need a high-wattage item (curling iron! electric shaver!), you cannot just use an adapter. And the adapter/transformer device I bought from Amazon was supposed to have a transformer in it, but it absolutely did not work and my curling iron started getting very hot and smelling overheated (in the handle!) when I tried to use it. So I ended up buying a curling iron in Melbourne that was made for 220 V. Fortunately my curling iron was undamaged from its experience, but my best advice is to be prepared to just buy what you need in this department when you get there. Oh, and the coolest thing is that each outlet has an on-off switch built into the outlet.
  5. Hotel– We stayed at hotel apartments that had sitting rooms and a shared kitchen so that we could be a family together. These accommodations were not the most luxurious, but they were just right for us. The Adina on Flinders Street in Melbourne was quiet, comfortable (except the pillows were meh), and roomy. It had a great kitchen with a full fridge, range, and dishwasher. Both hotels had in-suite laundry facilities; Fraser Suites had separate washer and dryer units (that works better than an all-in-one.) It had the coolest dishwasher *drawer* that was like a half-size unit — why isn’t this a thing in the US?
  6. Coffee– Coffee is espresso, everything else is espresso-based. Coffee provided by the hotels was instant, and they also provided electric kettles. They provided whole milk in aseptic boxes, but there was no Coffee-mate anywhere, even at the market. I did not find half-and-half but I did find cream. Danny brought coffee from China that were individual pour-over packets. In retrospect I wish I’d taken a picture, they were amazing. I bought some coffee bags (like teabags) that worked well also. The mugs were very small, so I was delighted to buy a Melbourne souvenir mug that holds 12 oz.
  7. Food– Pub food was our mainstay, and maybe that was our problem, but I ate way too many French fries in way too short a time period, and now I don’t care if I don’t see another for a year. EVERYTHING came with fries (chips). That said, there were a zillion little restaurants, mostly Asian (mostly Chinese) and Asian fusion, if you wanted something ethnic. They said there were many Greek places but I saw very few.
  8. Public transportation– I wish we’d bought the Myki cards upon arrival and loaded them up with $20 or so; then we would have ridden trams more. OK so the thing is, the trams are FREE throughout the Central Business District (CBD), but that district is pretty small, and as soon as you leave it, you owe money. Having the cards with a little money on them would have allowed us peace of mind about traveling on the trams. And they are SO convenient. Go to the website and find the routes so you will know at least some of the possibilities.
  9. What to see– While we were delighted with the excursions our travel agent arranged, we didn’t have a good idea what *else* there was to see or do. I’m super-glad Zoe suggested staying in the city center, it made everything within walking distance. I’d recommend that if you want to shop, that you familiarize yourself with the Queen Victoria Market, Arcade, Burke Street, and the Direct Factory Outlets, all in or close to the CBD. For museums, know what there is and what they cost. One place we had hoped to go was the Melbourne Planetarium, to see the “What’s in the Sky Tonight” show on Friday night (an adults-only presentation with alcoholic beverages available). We ended up not going because the price was $25 p/p PLUS the train fare ($10.50 p/p) and it was a 28 minute show with an hour each way in transportation time. And it’s not like you could see the stars from the city. But the Old Treasury Building was free and the Immigration Museum was $15, great bargains. The Royal Exhibition Building was appointment-only, and we weren’t familiar with the modern Exhibition Hall next door, or what was on show, so we missed those. I wish we had done a Yarra River cruise. The architecture of the city is intriguing, with many Victorian-era buildings cheek-by-jowl with modern high-rises. One thing I’m glad for is that we spent enough time in Melbourne to learn the lay of the land, such that any subsequent visit will be much smarter. Also I’m so glad we found Errol Street and the Fisk (TV show) set for Gruber and Associates. That just feels special. With Sydney, we were not there as long, but we gained a lot of “Australia wisdom” just from being in Melbourne, so I feel we were wiser with our time there.
  10. Beer & wine– I’m laughing to myself because apparently Foster’s is NOT Australian for beer, mate. I never saw Foster’s, anywhere. Coopers and Carlton are the two big breweries. I’m an IPA girl, so I was not crazy about the popular pale ales available, and the IPAs were not like the ones I’m used to (except for Pirate Life California Pale Ale, it was good!) Jim likes red ales and brown ales, but the only one of these he found that he liked was White Rabbit brown ale. For wines, we only bought Australian wines and they were uniformly good. As red lovers, Shiraz or Pinot Noir were our choices. One thing I loved about Australian wine is that it tends to be lower in alcohol content than American wines. Yay! More wine, less buzz! Seriously though, the wine is quite good, and that from a certified California Wine Snob.
  11. Sunscreen– OMG nobody told me Australia has no ozone layer. Bring sunscreen and use it.
  12. Travel agent– We didn’t know much about Australia, especially Melbourne, before this trip presented itself. It wasn’t on our bucket list or anything. Our son and daughter-in-law wanted to go there for their Lunar New Year holiday, and they wanted us to join them. So after setting some time parameters, we used a local travel agent (Tracy Hughes at Stellar Travel in Seattle), a specialist in Australia travel, to help us plan. The fact is, I couldn’t even imagine us planning this trip without help. The excursions were excellent– Phillip Island, Yarra Valley Wine Tour, and Grampians/Great Ocean Road in Melbourne, and Sydney Opera House and a Sydney Harbor dinner cruise in Sydney. She made all arrangements: flights, accommodations, transfers, excursions, and provided an app with the details that also pinged us with reminders. She wasn’t free like the old days, but at $800 p/p (out of a $30,000+ total for the trip) we thought this was a worthwhile expense.

And a propos of nothing, perhaps, the wallpaper in the Adina Hotel on Flinders Street was just eye-poppingly beautiful and amazing.

Safe travels to you!

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 16

Sunday, February 11, 2024

Our final day in Australia.

We lazed around the hotel all morning, packing and consuming what we could. We checked out at 11:30 and left our bags stashed at the hotel front desk. We walked over to the Maritime Museum on the other side of the Pyrmont bridge.

After seeing several ships and boats at the piers, we had lunch at the museum café, then ventured into the main building of the museum.

Lots of cool stuff to see inside the museum building, including meticulously carved ship miniatures to historical shipping and immigration, to a beautiful exhibit of prizewinning ocean-themed photography. This exquisite model was featured, accompanied by the artist who created her. He made everything himself, and carved all those tiny pieces using a Dremel-type tool.

When we’d seen all we could, we headed back toward the hotel with a cold beverage on our minds. Goodbye, Darling Harbor!

Hearing the sound of music, and thinking the Year of the Dragon celebrations ongoing, we headed toward it. However, it turned out to be a pro-Palestinian protest march, so we veered out of the way and found a seat and a couple of cold beers at the Belvedere, just a few doors down from the Fraser Suites.

Soon it was time to collect our things and meet our driver for the trip to the airport.

We got checked in without too much trouble, found a place to get another beverage, and waited. We boarded our flight and departed Sydney at 9:00 pm.

Also, February 11, because this was the 48-hour day.

Twenty-four hours of jet travel. The flight to Honolulu wasn’t nearly full, but as we were in a pair of seats, there was no extra room in our row. I doubt extra space would have helped much anyway, as the seats were just dead uncomfortable and sleeping was nearly impossible despite drugs and pillow and eye mask.

Arriving in Hawaii about 10 am, we were shuffled into a long queue with all the other passengers for immigration processing prior to baggage claim. We had not expected to go through this in Hawaii, although in retrospect this should have been obvious, but in any case, we should NOT have gone into the same line as the non-US passport holders and we ended up spending nearly an hour in line when we could have passed through a line specifically for US passport holders. Lesson learned. However, time was now short to catch our connection on Alaska Airlines. The border agent only asked us whether we had any food or agricultural products, and then took our photos and let us through. We grabbed our luggage and practically ran to the Alaska counter where we had to re-check our bags, rush through TSA (thankfully a short line!), making it to our flight just as it was boarding. Just enough time to take a picture as we were rushing … Hello, Hawaii!


The flight was relatively short at only 5 hours, dropping us into SEATAC just as the Super Bowl was winding up. We were treated to a parking lot van filled with football fans watching the last bit of overtime on someone’s phone, which they held up for the entire van to see as the Chiefs pulled out a win for Taylor Swift.

Two hours in the rain later, home again, and a very sound sleep in our comfy bed with our comfy pillows.

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 15

Saturday, February 10, 2024

We bid the kids a bittersweet goodbye as they flew off to Brisbane for the Queensland portion of their trip, and we spent our last full day in Sydney. The sun came out after an early morning rain, and the streets were filled with shoppers and tourists.

First stop: Museum of Opals, which is a jewelry store with an extra room with some displays of opalized fossils, dinosaur dioramas, and seating for lectures. Very clever marketing. I bought a pair of earrings.

Then on to the Sydney Museum to have lunch in their café (unfortunately, the kitchen staff was on break so the majority of their menu was unavailable).

After lunch we went into the museum itself. The museum sits on the site of the first government building in New South Wales, which had been demolished about 80 years after it was built (so in the mid 1800’s). When some people working on the site in the 1980’s found artifacts, the building was “rediscovered” and the site became a museum. Here is shown a model of the original government building by the time it was demolished.

Upstairs at the museum was a fine exhibition featuring the 50th anniversary of the Sydney Opera House, which occurred in 2023. I have to say the coolest thing they had on display was a Lego model of the Opera House.

Another favorite was a picture of the original sketch that the architect submitted that won the award for the concert hall.

Our last excursion of the day was a walk to Chinatown, where the Year of the Dragon celebration was getting started. As we walked over that way, we passed a Lego store, and were drawn in to see what they had. One thing was a very cool tree with native wildlife all made out of Lego.

There were too many people to see much in Chinatown, but it was fun to walk through.

Dinner was at a French restaurant, La Guillotine, near our hotel. I had a filet mignon with green peppercorn sauce, and Jim had duck breast. We enjoyed a bottle of house red with dinner.

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 14

Friday, February 9, 2024

Slept in a little and then let the rest of the family go out for exploratory activities while I minded the kids’ laundry, got a leisurely shower, and ironed some shirts.  

When they got back, they were hungry and wanted to visit a restaurant on the arcade floors (all Asian fusion types). So we went down to a Japanese ramen place and they all had ramen noodles in various broths, with sides of kimchi, tempura shrimp, and greens.

After lunch we went down to the waterfront and visited Sydney Sea Life aquarium.

Still with some time to kill, we then had some drinks at Bungalow 8, until it was time for our dinner cruise at 5 pm.

The dinner was great, and the harbor was full of sailboats that looked to be racing, as they were well heeled over and going along fast. We saw several cruise ships as well, both docked at port and underway.

Our cruise ended at 7 pm and we headed back to the hotel.

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 13

Thursday, February 8, 2024

A little coffee and breakfast before we headed out to the Sydney Opera House for our tour and late lunch at the House Canteen.

We walked through the beautiful Hyde Park on the way over, and the Royal Botanical Gardens on the way back.

The tour lasted an hour but allowed us to go into the two principal theaters as well as learning about the history of the Opera House. The structure was designed by a Danish architect, Jørn Utzon, and chosen in competition with about 200 other entries. It provided many engineering challenges and went way over budget. The Opera House was completed in 1973. There’s a great podcast on 99% Invisible about the design and construction–and heartbreak–of this world heritage landmark.

https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/cautionary-tales-of-the-sydney-opera-house/

There are no ugly views of this structure. Even the glass is angled so that when you look through it, it won’t reflect your image back at you, instead always allowing the spectator to view whatever is outside. “The roof of the Sydney Opera House has a whopping 1,056,000 glazed-white granite tiles that have been imported from Sweden. Though they are meant to be self-cleaning in nature, they still require maintenance & replacement. The impressive and subtle chevron pattern has glossy white-matte & cream-coloured tiles manufactured by Höganäs AB. These ceramic tiles are fungus-proof and the white and cream finish catches the light & mirrors the sky from dawn to dusk, every single day of the year.” (from https://rosteelroofing.com.au/why-the-roof-of-the-sydney-opera-house-is-so-amazing/)

In addition to the Opera House itself being breathtakingly beautiful, the views from the point are likewise spectacular.

Our tour included lunch chosen from a limited menu from the House Canteen. On the way back, we stopped at The Charles Grand Brasserie and Bar, a posh bar in a gorgeous art deco building, where we had a happy hour drink before returning to our hotel for the night.

ACA building, with The Charles Grand Brasserie and Bar, photo citation: Yusuke Oba at https://www.broadsheet.com.au/sydney/restaurants/charles

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 12

Wednesday, February 7, 2024

Our final day with Paul on the Great Ocean Road began with breakfast in Apollo Bay at a bake shop specializing in small pies stuffed with savory seafood fillings. Jim got up super-early and saw gorgeous constellations, PLUS got a scallop pie right at opening, and later on when everyone was up, the kids had scallop pies for breakfast!

Then on to the Koala Café, where we hoped to see some King Parrots and rosellas eat from our hands (we didn’t tempt any, sadly), and to observe some koalas in the wild (which we did.) We were fortunate to see a very large male koala eating, who bellowed (mate-seeking?) before resting his head and perhaps going to sleep.

From there, we continued along the Great Ocean Road to Scenic Lookout and then to Teddy’s Lookout, high above the town of Lorne. We saw a magpie splayed out on the ground and were concerned it was hurt, but Paul explained that magpies do that to sun themselves.

Erskine Falls gave more spectacular views of cascading waters and dense vegetation.

After walking through the town, we settled on Lorne Hotel for lunch.

At the entry point to the Great Ocean Road, we stopped at the Welcome Arch and enjoyed the sculpture of World War I veterans building the Great Ocean Road in the 1920’s and 30’s.

We made a short side trip to the brilliant white Split Point Lighthouse, then a quick stop at Airey’s Inlet to see the “Judas” rock. Final stop was Bell’s Beach, renowned for its surfing, but the water was relatively calm, so only a couple of surfers were out there.

Then on to Melbourne Airport, bidding Paul a fond farewell, and a quick flight to Sydney and check-in at our next lodging, Fraser Suites in Sydney (view from room).

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 11

Tuesday, February 6, 2024

Day 2 of Grampians/Great Ocean Road tour. After having breakfast at Darcy’s, we drove a couple of hours through pastoral countryside to the Great Ocean Road. Miles and miles of picturesque ranches with sheep and cattle. Paul’s plan of taking us to the Grampians first, then *backwards* down the coast, ensured that we weren’t fighting throngs of tourists at every stop. Brilliant!

First stop, and our first view from the Great Ocean Road, was Bay of Islands. The colors! The land is made up of white limestone that must have significant iron content, because the white is punctuated by orange (rust?). The water is the most incredible cerulean blue over sand, and deep royal blue over seaweed beds. Other colors included jade green, bright royal blue, aquamarine, and the whitest sea-foam I’ve ever seen. The shoreline is treacherous, and called the “Shipwreck Coast” for a reason, with shallow waters and sharp rocks out a long way from the steep cliffs and prominent rocky islands just offshore. The rock islands are called The Apostles, because I guess at some point there were 12 of them, although nowadays some of them have succumbed to the relentlessness of the ocean’s erosive power. Some beaches were accessible by stairs, but most were not. We stopped at every lookout point along the way: Bay of Martyrs, the Grotto, London Bridge.

Beyond getting all excited about the beautiful ocean views, we were absolutely delighted to see a REAL, LIVE echidna in the wild, ambling along near the boardwalk trail. SO exciting!

Then into the town of Port Campbell (lunch at 12 Rocks Beach Bar Café), where we ate at a bustling pub overlooking the bay, beyond which breakers could be seen. No place for boats!

Then on to the rest of the “Apostles” – Loch Ard Gorge, site of a daring shipwreck rescue in the 1800’s and the actual 12 Apostles visitor center and beach access.

On our way to Apollo Bay, we made a stop at an ancient rainforest trail called Mait’s rest, where we walked beneath fern trees and enormous mountain ash eucalyptus. The trail was cool, dark, and very green and beautiful.

Our stop for the night was Apollo Bay (Apollo Bay Motel and Apartments). I just wanted to put my feet up and relax, and Jim wasn’t very hungry, so I split the rest of my pizza with him. The kids ate dinner at a local pub.

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 10

Monday, February 5, 2024

Day 1 of our private tour of the Grampians/Great Ocean Road. Our driver/tour guide, Paul, picked us up promptly at the Adina at 8:20 a.m. in his luxurious Mercedes van.

First stop was in Ballarat, a beautiful Victorian-era city filled with incredibly ornate 19th century office buildings financed by the gold rush which had been centered here. We had a coffee and breakfast, then visited an art museum and walked the wide boulevards in the town center, filled with scores of original Victorian buildings. It made me wonder what similar parts of California, or even San Francisco, might look like today if the area hadn’t been so profoundly affected by earthquakes. We walked into one of the original hotels, Craig’s Royal Hotel, where the lobby and parlor were completely decorated in period furniture, wallpaper, and accessories. Lovely town!

After, we went to Hall’s Gap, checked into our rooms, and had lunch at a pub called Paper Scissors Rock, then continued up the Grampian National park to MacKenzie Falls, hiking to several good lookout points for the falls and other sweeping views of the valleys (the Balconies was one). It seemed like you could see for a hundred miles over a huge vista.

We drove by a sports field (cricket, maybe?) near some homes, that was hosting a mob of kangaroos as the evening closed in, so Paul stopped and let us walk out near the grazing animals.

We had dinner at Flame Brothers, where we were amused by a kookaburra and a cockatoo, who were waiting to pounce on any abandoned (or not-well-guarded) food, and then back to the hotel.

Hall’s Gap is a very small town, so not a lot of choice of hotels. Our hotel was called Darcy’s, and our rooms each had a double bed and a twin bed, so we slept separately. But the pillows were very comfortable, and we were tired, so slept very well.

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 9

Sunday, February 4, 2024

This was the only really HOT day we had, and it was nearly 100 degrees! Our day started with a tour of the Old Treasury building and Melbourne’s history, particularly of the gold rush era. This photo is from the website: https://www.oldtreasurybuilding.org.au/ Apparently we were so busy looking at the exhibits that no photos were taken by us. This building is where they stored the gold found in the gold rush era while awaiting shipment back to England.

From there we went to the Imperial Hotel for beers and lunch; I had a Cesar salad.

From there we went to the gallery of aboriginal art. Then back to the apartment for a few hours during the heat of the day. 

Later in the afternoon we went down to the riverfront and a restaurant called the Arbory, well shaded by trees and all outdoor seating, for drinks and a charcuterie to share. We walked a bit more, including several crossings of the Yarra River.

Apparently it was too hot to take pictures.

Harris Family Down Under — Chapter 8

Saturday, February 3, 2024

The boys sent out for a “full English” breakfast early, with the plan to visit Albert Park, where they are busy setting up for the next Australian F1 Grand Prix.

After they returned, Danny and Zoe went out to lunch with some friends.

Jim and I went out to the Hopetoun Tearoom and a walk through the arcade and Bourke Street mall.

I bought some children’s books about Australia. Then we went back to the hobby shop near the Vodaphone store and I bought myself a jigsaw puzzle with an Australian theme.

When we returned to the apartment, Danny and Zoe came back, and we headed out to the Elephant and Wheelbarrow, a pub, for drinks and dinner.

Stori sent us a photo to let us know that Monster was comfortable …